DCS Troubleshooting: Starter Inoperable
2008-2010 Ford® specific no crank issues:
- The center exhaust temperature sensor from the stock Ford exhaust must be connected. In some cases, all three sensors will need to be connected.
- Was the truck's tune returned to stock before the conversion? The tune in the ECM must be a factory tune to get the truck to run with the engine swap. If it is not flashed back to a factory tune, the ECM will need to be sent to someone with re-flashing capabilities or brought to a dealer.
- Antitheft may be activated. If this is the case, an indicator padlock light will illuminate in the cluster. This often occurs when the starter is jumped across the posts to get the engine to crank. The resolution to this issue is not always cut and dry. Sometimes you can disconnect the batteries to get it to reset. Sometimes clearing existing codes will work.
- Aftermarket fuel systems can also cause the ECM to impede starting capabilities. Be sure to check for codes.
- The stock Ford starter circuit is retained from the truck. You will need to connect your factory starter B+ cable as well as the factory “S” terminal wire for the starter to operate.
Battery voltage verification:
- Check power at the batteries and verify they have a full charge. The voltage of a typical 12-volt automotive battery is at or above 12.6 volts. Charge the batteries and load test to verify they are in good working order. Replace batteries if needed.
- Check voltage to the B+ post of the battery verifying 12.6 volts or higher. If there is a voltage drop from the battery to the starter you may have a faulty cable. Clean and inspect cable ends. Inspect cables for corrosion or breaks in the cable. Verify you have good grounds that have a clear path to a clean metal surface. Any surface rust or paint at the ground will greatly affect grounding properties.
- Often an initial no start situation occurs after an engine swap due to grounds being missed or battery cable connections being overlooked. Be sure you have ground wires from the battery to frame, frame to engine block, block to body.
Neutral safety:
- Check to make sure the vehicle is in "park" or "neutral".
- Inspect neutral safety circuit wiring and connections.
- After visually inspecting connections, ohm out the wiring circuit to verify pin locations and wire conditions.
- Test the neutral safety switch operation to confirm it is in good working order.
“S” terminal to starter verification:
- The “S” terminal engages the solenoid of the starter and causes the starter to operate. Verify that there is 12 volts at the “S” terminal wire at the starter when the key is turned to the "start" position.
- If 12 volts are not present when the key is turned to "start", further diagnostics of the starting circuit is required. Verify that the starter relay wiring is correct and that the fuse is not blown.
- Verify that the ignition source is functioning. This can be signaling the ECM or going directly to the starter relay depending on the vehicle.
- The stock starter circuit is often retained from the truck. You will need to connect your factory starter B+ cable as well as the factory “S” terminal wire for the starter to operate.
Starter misalignment:
- Verify that the proper procedure was followed when installing the adapter plate. Adapter plates require block modifications to ensure starter fitment. If this is not done before installation, the starter will not align properly.
- Some transmissions require grinding of the starter pocket to make room for the throw of the starter gear. Not doing this will result in starter failure.
Replace starter after verifying staring circuit is functioning properly and starter is faulty.
If issues continue to persist, you may contact us for more troubleshooting tips: 320-440-2900.